Is The Contemporary Patek Philippe Ref 5205 A Good Buy Watches?
Are you familiar with Patek Philippe’s Ref 5205? You know the one. A mirror-polished white gold case with an attractive gradient blue dial. The annual calendar is displayed through three windows. It’s a stunning watch that’s hard to miss on the wrist. In fact, this variant is one of Patek Philippe’s most modern complications. At least in my humble opinion, it is. However, the Ref 5205 is also one of those top replica watches that trades on the secondary market at near retail prices. Not that it’s a bargain at retail, mind you. It is, however, for those lucky enough to be in the market for their first complicated Patek Philippe it is a great option. If it ever gets overlooked. There are also two more traditional rose gold versions. At least for now – but more on that later. Does all this mean that Ref 5205 is a good choice? Let’s get into the details and you can decide for yourself.
Despite its modern styling, the Ref 5205 is not a new watch. In fact, Patek Philippe first introduced the model back in 2010 in two versions, both with white gold cases. The dials are two-toned, featuring a silvery gray or slate gray paired with matte black. This somehow gave them a sportier look, which was somewhat at odds with their formal copy watch style. Patek Philippe later solved this problem to some extent with the now discontinued Ref 5960.
I wouldn’t say that the Ref 5205 was a huge success for Patek Philippe. They didn’t make that many of them anyway. But it did well enough that two rose gold versions appeared in 2013. These are more classic and elegant, featuring a white opaline or lacquered black dial. They are still in collections today (but if the rumors are correct, they won’t be available anymore). And the first white gold model stopped production in 2018. In its place, the Ref 5205G has a gradient blue dial version.
You can currently buy the earlier model, the white gold Ref 5205, for about $46,000. Depending on the condition, provenance, etc. This is about $10,000 less than you would pay for the later gradient blue model. All three versions of the white gold model use the same movement. Therefore, it is mainly the desirability of the gradient blue dial that causes the premium. There is also the fact that it is relatively new.
Ref 5205 has always been aimed at a younger audience. But those early iterations didn’t quite land the way Patek Philippe wanted them to. That all changed in 2018 when a gradient blue dial version appeared. In some ways, it was the brand’s kowtowing to the trends of the day. Blue dials – especially gradient ones – were, and still are, red hot. The impact was instant. Almost overnight, the Ref 5205 became more appealing to a wider audience.